Niken Prathivi, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta | Feature | Sun, November 11 2012, 3:45 PM
Paper Edition | Page: 8
have taken a brave step in producing an excellent walking-tour guide dedicated to visitors as well as inhabitants of Jakarta.
In the 224-page book, Whitmarsh explores all aspects of Jakarta from the view of both visitor and inhabitant, claiming the book as the first in-depth guide to Jakarta’s fascinating cultural sites and attractions which can be enjoyed on half-day or full-day excursions — fortunately — with detailed maps and directions as well as some common cultural hints about the capital.
To complete the guide, Wood, a pho-tographer, provides the book with informative and natural images that help readers understand more about the city and its unique spots.
The book is divided into five main sections. First, it gives some tips for successful expeditions into the tangled lanes of the city. It also covers health and safety basics, cultural dos and don’ts and an introduction to the city’s transport options.
In this section, Whitmarsh shares wise safety tips that cover cyclists, motorbikes, pedestrian crossings, sidewalks, theft and women.
“Women should generally find that they feel quite safe in Jakarta, and that while there may be the occasional stares, they won’t feel like their life is in any danger. Ultimately, though, try exploring the city with a friend, always be aware of your surroundings, and if your intuition sounds a warning, listen to it. An ear-piercing scream can often be the best defense. The word for help is tolong,” guides Whitmarsh.
Under health information, Whitmarsh highlights three main points during the walking tour: general health tips (use anti-mosquito lotion to avoid being beaten by dengue mosquitoes; update vaccinations against typhoid, hepatitis A and B and tetanus-diphtheria; use sunscreen; take a cup of ginger tea for the occasional upset tummy), basic food safety and hydration.
On the cultural dos and don’ts, Whitmarsh wittily shares very useful and detailed hints which will be of great help
in exploring the city.
“Be a polite photographer. Indonesia and its people are incredibly photogenic. However, do ask permission, boleh foto? [May I take a photo?], before shooting portraits. Most of the time you will not only allowed but will be highly encouraged. Your subject may mutter that everyone takes their photo and then takes the photo away and never shares it. Photographers might consider printing some copies of the images and returning another day to share them,” suggests Whitmarsh.
Seven years living in Jakarta means that Whitmarsh truly understands living in the city, mentioning all the kinds of transport choices the town has to offer from the Transjakarta to becak, the pedal-powered rickshaws.
In the second section, the book delves into the coast and North Jakarta. Whitmarsh suggests five walking tours: three have a historical and cultural flavor, strolling through the city’s old town, harbor and Chinatown; the Muara Angke tour takes in the disparity between rich and poor, passing through neighborhoods in which mansions and slums share the same zip code, before arriving at a mangrove forest and fishing village; and lastly, the Ancol tour, a blast of seaside fun with roller coasters, a water park and an art market.
Under Walking Tour 5 to Pasar Ular (Snake Market) around Glodok and the Mangga Dua area, Whitmarsh shares his adventurous culinary experiences of fresh sautéed cobra, barbequed python and monkey meat.
Going to the third section, Whitmarsh takes readers to have a look at the central area of Jakarta with eight tours exploring both main streets and the seldom-visited back streets.
In this section, Cikini-area lover Whitmarsh finds that this location is one of Central Jakarta’s artistic centers, adding that it also has great coffee and good food along the way.
“You know I often go back to Cikini because, for me, it’s the art center of Jakarta, and it’s very accessible. You have the Jakarta Arts Institute [IKJ], which I absolutely love going to because of the murals and the art students that are there, it’s so energetic. You have the arts studio you can visit; they have the theater there, and the performances. You never know what kind of performances you’re going to see there.
“And there’s a cool coffee shop around there, and tattoo studios, there’s a nice kampong to walk around behind. So, personally I often go back to Cikini,” said Whitmarsh on the sidelines of his book launch in Jakarta recently.
To the south Whitmarsh guides readers to explore a huge side of Jakarta which the government defines as encompassing both Kuningan, in the central business district, and the University of Indonesia. Seven tours thread through this part of town.
In the final section, Whitmarsh talks about the best ways to enjoy some attractions within five hours’ drive from the city. The farther you get from smog and noise, the greener or more relaxing the environment becomes.
Sun worshippers and sailors will enjoy the Thousand Islands tour. The Jatiluhur tour spends a day at a lake. The Bogor tour gets on the train and explores the botanical gardens and a gong factory, while the Puncak tour goes up Gede and Pangrango volcanoes. The Pelabuhan Ratu tour goes all the way to the south coast of Java for some white-water rafting and surfing.
With complete information on who can do the walking tour, how long it takes and how far, how to start the tour, where to go and how to get there with extras like heads up, fast facts plus vivid photos from various angles, this walking-tour guide is a keeper for those visiting or living in the city that they say never sleeps.
Jakarta 25 Excursions
Andrew Whitmarsh
and Melanie Wood
244 pages
Tuttle Publishing, 2012
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